-Day 1-
Monday, September 22, 2014
11.0 PCT Trail Miles
Union Gap to Pear Lake
PCT Mile 2483 to 2494 (+ 2mi to PCT from Smith Brook Rd) 13.0 Total Trail Miles
Well, its been six weeks since my Section hike from Stevens Pass to Snoqualmie Pass. I find myself with a pack on once again getting ready to embark on another PCT hike. I'm once again on Stevens Pass, this time heading North on the PCT from Smith Brook Road. The objective is to hike to Pear Lake, stay the night, then hike back. The purpose of this two day trek is 3 fold. 1st to test out my new feet strategy to see if I get blisters again, 2nd to trial a Demo McHale back pack with a full load to see if the pack problem goes away, and 3rd is to evaluate my continued concern about the "loneliness" factor with solo hiking.

The day wasn't starting on a high note. I was having some, let's just say "GI" issues, that followed me the whole way to Pear Lake. On top of this, it was cloudy and started raining when I was about a half mile up the Smith Brook Trail. I stopped and got my pack cover on and pulled out my GoLite umbrella. I just heard that GoLite is out of business. Bummer. I like the down jacket and this great, light umbrella I purchased from them a year ago. I'm pleased with this combination of umbrella and pack cover. Putting on the rain coat is confining and hot/stuffy. Using the umbrella allows me to have more airflow and stay more comfortable. Obviously, if its a blowing rain, then I'd be forced into the rain coat, buttoning down the hatches. Fortunately, the rain only lasted a couple of hours.
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| The PCT/Smithbrook Tr junction; where it all began 32yrs ago |
It took me less than hour to walk the two miles and 700ft gain up to Union Gap where Smithbrook Trail and the PCT intersect. I stopped there for a couple of minutes reminiscing. I traveled in time back 32 years; the year is 1981, end of June. My good friend, Mike Claassen, invited me on an overnight backpacking trip; my first :0) We drove up to Smithbrook Road the night before and slept in my VolksWagon Camper Van at the trail head. It was a starry night; memorable for sure, because it was so crisp and clear and a whole new experience; hiking in the Cascades. Cool. I had on a pair of jeans with these old Army Boots I had gotten from my Dad about 8 years prior. I had worn them on three canoeing trips into the Boundary Waters in Northern Minnesota. These were not hiking boots; that's for sure. I'm sure I had on a cotton T-shirt and cotton flannel shirt as well. Cotton, cotton, killer cotton. I'm surprised I survived almost 20yrs of hiking in killer cotton; knowing what I know now, I really am.
We hiked down to Lake Janus and stayed a wet night sitting in the drizzle, poking at a very smoky camp fire, trying to stay warm. The next morning, the rain had stopped and I remember going out to the lake and casting a few fly s. Caught some really nice rainbow trout. While I was standing there looking out at the lake, a bald eagle comes swooping down to the surface of the lake. It happened so fast, that at first I didn't realize what was going on. The Eagle reaches into the water and comes out with a rainbow trout in its talons. I can still see that fish with its tail flapping back and forth as the Eagle so carelessly flew off to have its breakfast as well. I was so, so, very impressed. I had never seen anything like it, ever. I think I could get into this hiking thing, I was thinking. There are a lot of lakes up here, I could fish forever. Oh wait!! There is one other memory that just came back to me.
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| Lake Janus |
As Mike and I were hiking on the PCT heading down to Lake Janus, we passed a PCT hiker. We stopped and chatted for a couple of minutes. I was soo impressed; it was a girl, hiking alone!! At this stage of the game for me, there would have been absolutely no way I would have hiked alone on a day hike, much less an overnight hike. I don't know if we made her nervous or if it was her standard comment when passing a couple of guys on the trail, but she said her hiking buddies were right behind her. We never passed anyone else on the trail that day; she told a white lie; understandable. Ted Bundy was still fresh in everyone's mind in the Northwest in 81'. It gives me great joy to be running into so many solo women hikers now days; pure joy!! It's noticeable how comfortable they are as compared to this women I had meet so long ago. I'm the father of two young women so I have a vested interest in women safely hiking solo. My oldest daughter hiked in solo to meet up with me last year at Colchuck Lake; we then went up into the upper Enchantments for three unbelievable days of hiking and scrambling.
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| Me and Leah; upper Enchantments 2013 |
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| Colchuck Lake; Dragontail Mtn |
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| Glacier Peak |
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| Top of Grizzly Mountain |
OK, now that the "Time Warp" is done, let's get back to the present, shall we. Anyway, after my memory trip pause at Lake Janus I headed on North up the PCT to the top of Grizzly Peak, where I stopped for lunch, rest, and to use the toilet; again, ugh. From Lake Janus North, this is new trail for me!! I'm looking forward to seeing Pear Lake. I have look at it on a map many, many times. I only passed two people that day; both heading south to Stevens Pass. One was a section hiker who started at Steheiken and the other was an over-nighter, along with his dog. My friend, loneliness, came and stopped for a visit and hung out the rest of the way to Pear Lake. It was a thousand foot drop off of Grizzly Peak then a 600ft climb up to Pear lake. I could actually see Pear Lake across the valley. Only four miles to go!! I sure was wanting to stop. Had there been water up here on the top of Grizzly, I think I probably would have stopped for the night; but, I pushed on.
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| Pear Lake in the distance from Grizzly Mountain |
My feet were doing fantastic, not an issue at all and this McHale Pack is unbelievable. I'm definitely going to order one. At this point I was figuring I will use the McHale pack even if I don't do the PCT. My pesky friend, Loneliness, was really doing a number on me right now. Lonely. I kept thinking to myself, Na, I'm not doing the PCT, this is not going to be tolerable for me. I like my people, I need my people, I want my people god damn it!!!!


Anyway, I worked my way on over to Pear Lake, and dropped my pack, then headed for the pit toilet. This going to the bathroom business is getting very annoying. Afterwards, I got the jetboil going and made a cup of hot coco. I turned my i-phone music on speaker mode so I could feel like "my people" were around. All I could think about was, get dinner done, go to bed, then get up and get the hell out of here and never, ever, ever, hike alone ever again!! I didn't know it at the time, but the trail was getting ready to send me an angel. Another PCT phenomenon was coming my way and just like all the other ones I have had, I wasn't expecting it.
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| Pear Lake Campsite |
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| Pear Lake from my campsite |
Once I had the tent up, I cooked my dinner of Mountain House Beef Stew with Pees; my favorite. I had another cup of hot coco, then grabbed the water bag and headed down to the lake to get water. When I got back it was about 6 in the evening and the sun was just starting to set. I was deep in thought, most likely thinking about how fucking lonely this whole fucking thing is, when out of the blue a voice calls out; "Hello"!!! Startled the hell out of me. I turn around, and up on the trail is a young blond woman about the same age as my daughter. I said "Hello" back and then asked her, "are you a thru hiker". "I sure am" she said. "Started in San Diego in April at the kickoff". "Wow, that's so great", I said. She then said something I would have never expected from her in a million years. She has hiked all the way from San Diego and was almost done, but she looks at me and says; "I just hate camping alone; can I come down there and camp with you tonight?". I was absolutely tickled to death; literally tickled to death. Here I was thinking how lonely this whole thing is and out of the blue the Trail sends me Cathleen. No trail name she said, just Cathleen. Well, Cathleen, it is a real pleasure to meet you!!! I sipped my hot coco while she got her chores done. She was the purest example of efficiency I had ever seen. Tent up, stove out, cloths changed. sleeping pad inflated, sleeping bag fluffed and in the tent, off to the Lake to get water, then cook dinner. While she was cooking dinner I sat on a log and finished my hot coco while we chatted for a bit, sharing experiences and answering each others questions. She is from Connecticut, lots of Marathon runners in her family, and she is planning to stay in Seattle after she gets done with the trail. She had stopped in Ashland, Oregon, at a grocery store and put her food drops together for this section, then mailed them on ahead to be picked up later down the trail. Her next stop is Stehekin, but, that's still a few days away. I told her all I knew about the trail North from Kodak Point; which she will go past tomorrow. I've been from Kodak Point all the way around Glacier Peak and up over Cloudy Pass. It is truly one of my favorite sections. Glacier Peak is breath taking and the old growth Douglas Firs on the North side are the biggest I had ever, ever seen!! A whole forest of them. Shear Giants; I can still see them so vividly. There are so many of them through that section. It's like you can feel them as you walk under their canopy. It's almost like a low frequency vibration. I remember my Cousin Rick and I talking about this as we hiked through. How fitting to, that, while walking through here,he was telling me all about a "Trilogy" he had just read; Lord of the Rings. I hadn't heard of it before; remember, it is 1983 at this time..
Well, it's dark now and time for bed. Cathleen said she was going to be up about 5 and on the trail by 7. I crawled into my tent and got changed into my sleeping cloths and slipped into my sleeping bag; all fluffy and cozy. I left the light on for a little bit while I wrote a few lines in my journal. Once I turned the light out, I was instantly asleep....
About two in the morning I opened my eyes to darkness. I laid there for a moment when I heard what had woken my up. There it was again, the scurrying just outside my tent door. I reached for my headlamp and switched it on to an instant beam of bright light. Oh crap! I left the food bag at the door. I unzipped the tent door and flipped it back. Out of a small hole in the side of my food bag, a little head popped up. It's beady little eyes were reflecting in the light of my head lamp. I thought for an instant I could read her mind, "What the fuck! I had just found the peanut M&Ms!!" In an instant she jumped out of the food bag and right into my hiking shoe next to the bag. Her head pops up again, and I gave her a hearty, "Get! Go on you pesky little vermin". She flew out of my shoe and was gone in a flash. I pulled the food bag, along with my hiking shoes, into the tent. Nothing to do with it for now. I turned the headlamp off and zipped my bag back up and drifted off back to sleep...
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| Lake Valhalla; 6 miles North of Stevens Pass 2014 |